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Recognizing Wine's Taste of Place – Second of Five Parts
Linda Murphy, Chronicle Wine Editor – February 14, 2005

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Gallo is not the only culprit – store shelves are lined with wines like Almaden California Chablis, Inglenook California Chianti (both brands are from Canandaigua Wine) and Port-style fortified wines from throughout California, Australia and elsewhere.

Spanish producers like Osborne hope that E. & J. Gallo Winery and other U.S. producers stop using the word "Sherry" on fortified white wines made from California grapes. Authentic Sherry comes from the Jerez region of Spain. Chronicle photo by Craig Lee

And it's all legal, at least in the United States. Winemakers here can use what the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) calls semi-generic place names like 'Champagne,' 'Burgundy,' 'Port,' 'Sherry,' 'Chablis' and 'Chianti' (Italy), on their labels, as long as these words are accompanied by a U.S. geographic location, like 'California' or 'America.'

It galls European vintners, and me, to see these wines, which are prohibited in the 25-member European Union. The EU finds 'California Champagne' and similar terms to be misleading and confusing to consumers, as well as harmful to the image and value of wines produced in the regions that rightfully claim the origin name.

"Just as it doesn't make sense for Florida oranges to come from New Mexico or Idaho potatoes from Georgia, a wine bearing the name of Napa Valley or Champagne should not come from China," Paillard says. "We are committed to educating consumers about the importance of place and ending the use of misleading labels. (The United States) is the only place in the world where this exists."

Even in the United States, the topic sparks disputes, such as the NVV's legal skirmish with Fred Franzia and his Bronco Wine Co., producer of the $1.99 Charles Shaw 'Two Buck Chuck' wines sold at Trader Joe's stores.

In May, the California Court of Appeal upheld a state law passed in 2000 that requires any wine with the word 'Napa' on the label to be made from at least 75 percent Napa County grapes. Bronco owns three brands – Napa Creek, Napa Ridge and Rutherford Vintners (Rutherford is a Napa Valley sub-appellation) – that were not made from Napa County fruit.

In response, Bronco is now selling Napa Creek wines made from Napa grapes and with a Napa Valley appellation on the label for $3.99 at Trader Joe's. Whether they're well-made wines or not, Four-Buck Fred just thumbed his nose at the very people who met recently to begin their efforts to protect their wines' origins.

Expect Franzia to appeal the court decision, and expect NVV to pull out all stops to protect its image as one of the world's most prestigious wine regions.

"Winemakers worldwide know that when it comes to wine, location matters," says Joel Aiken, president of the NVV board of directors and vice president of winemaking for Beaulieu Vineyard. "Our goal for this initiative is simple – in Europe most people are familiar with the concept of terroir, but in the U.S. this concept is not part of the vernacular. We have joined together as winemakers to help promote a broader public awareness of why place is important to wine, and why the names of the places where great wines are produced need to be used accurately."

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Related articles:

• U.S. and EU Reconcile Over Glass of Wine – September 27. 300527 S
• A Look at the European Union – September 11, 2005
• U.S., Europe Negotiate Use of Names Like Port – August 19, 2005
• The End of Tocai? – July 18, 2005
• Vitigni Autoctoni (Italian Native Vines): Witness to the Past and Protagonists of the Future – June 10, 2005

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